Atlético Madrid

The derby, Pamplona twice over, and one long road to San Sebastián

Every row here comes down to three football clubs. Real Madrid, five times. Osasuna, five times. Real Sociedad, once. Two rivalries and one trip to the north coast — one of the stranger reading lists in football, and somehow a very good one. The derby runs through all of it like a red thread. The twenty-ninth of…